Remember back
in the day when any recipe featured in a magazine or cookbook was called
“Hawaiian Something or Other” if it had pineapple in it?
We sure have a
come a long way, baby…
A bit over 21
years ago a group of 12 innovative chefs from all around the Hawaiian
Islands started a food revolution when they went directly to the
farmers and asked them to grow certain things for them.
The farmers
enthusiastically responded, knowing they would have a guaranteed buyer for
their crops and the chefs enthusiastically started developing recipes using
these locally grown ingredients…and that, in a (macadamia) nut shell, is how
the Hawai’i Regional Cuisine movement got started.
Hawai’i
Regional Cuisine celebrates not only the foods the farmers or local fishermen
can provide, but also incorporate the cuisines of the varied ethnic groups of
people who have made these islands home.
More and more
island chefs work hard at developing a close relationship with the farmers and
other purveyors of the ingredients they need to develop the dishes that will
eventually be enjoyed by locals and visitors alike in what is also being called
a “Farm to Table” movement.
One of the
leaders in this movement is Executive Chef James Babian of the Four Seasons
Resort Hualalai on the Kona
Coast. His approach is to embrace what he calls the
‘seasonal, regional and artisanal’ concepts of food and cooking by using as
much as possible island sourced; from locally harvested sea salt to several
whole carcasses of grass-fed beef each month.
Chef Jim and
his staff purchases from 160 different farmers, fishermen and other purveyors
of locally grown or sourced ingredients…and for the last three years, to show
their appreciation to their suppliers, they have hosted a Mahalo Farmers &
Chefs Symposium and Lunch on the second Wednesday of November.
This was the
first year that I didn’t have any conflicting events happening on ‘the day’ and
was able to attend.
The ballroom tables
were beautiful decorated with centerpieces made from assorted vegetables,
mushrooms and orchids and one wall held bins of colorful produce provided by
the farmers. Below the bins, there was a veritable Smörgåsbord of salad ingredients which I failed to photograph.
The food was
displayed on stations around the ballroom where lunch was served and outside
the ballroom where chefs had set up an outdoor kitchen and several entrées and side dishes
where being prepared.
The food was
simply but spectacularly presented with each dish’s ingredient able to capture
the highlights. Lots of ‘little dishes’
with just enough to make you want more…but then you had to taste the next
little dish…and the next…and the next!
Three
different appetizers; roasted multicolored beets and goat cheese, thinly sliced
kampachi sprinkled with kiawe smoked sea salt and ‘ahi with perfectly sweet
grape tomatoes.
Several platters
of cut or sliced fruit; passion fruit, star fruit, pineapple, dragon fruit and
longans.
Perfectly
cooked slices of grass-fed beef, ravioli, rice and braised bok choy, mahi mahi
with citrus, and a delicious ‘stratta’ of sweet potatoes…I'm sure I forgot to name a few more!
Although there
were several wonderful looking desserts, I managed to limit myself to one…the
delicious Hawaiian chocolate drink served in a shot glass and plated with two mini round malasadas ‘floating’ on a slightly sweet purée of passion fruit.
During the
lunch, Chef Jim presented his “Wish List” of produce and other ingredients he
would love to have for next year. To
read more about the event and to see the “Wish List”, please read my feature
article for the Hawai’i HomeGrown Food Network.
Farmer Mahalo
Day at the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai.
Chef Jim, the
hotel and his staff do it right!
Showing
appreciation to their suppliers keeps everyone happy and satisfied but also
makes everyone realize that there might be just a little bit more we all can do
to help our island become more sustainable.
