
Eggs are one of my most favorite foods.
Eggs are still fairly inexpensive, easy to cook in a variety of ways, many of them fast.
They can be eaten fried, boiled, coddled, deviled, in soufflés or as a part of another dish, be it in salads, fritattas, omelets, baking or just to make meringue. They can leaven, bind, thicken, coat or glaze, clarify, emulsify, retard crystallization, garnish, color, give moisture or dryness as needed, flavor and add nutrients.
All of the above make eggs the "all around" perfect convenience food.
Sometime ago I started compiling information about eggs and while doing searches, found a source for ordering a copy of "The incredible edible egg: Eggcyclopedia" - (c) 1999 - from The American Egg Board. Some of the other sources are Shirley O. Corriher, Jacques Pepin and assorted cooking websites.
Eggs contain more nutrients in their yolks and whites than most foods. After all, it is designed to support life and within that small shell it holds everything needed to bring the miracle of a baby chick into being.
An average large egg provides high-quality protein and significant amounts of all needed vitamins, except for C.
From vitamin A, D and E to copper, iodine, iron, manganese, phosphorus, selenium and zinc. Loaded with more protein than milk, fish, beef or soybeans, it also contains niacin, riboflavin, magnesium, sodium, potassium, and sulfur. An egg contains approximately 75 calories and only 5 grams of fat, most of that unsaturated.

Photo: Sonia - Sign at Hilo Coffee Mill
CLASSIFICATION OF EGGS BY SIZE:
JUMBO: 30 oz per dozen
EXTRA LARGE: 27 oz per dozen
LARGE: 24 oz per dozen
MEDIUM: 21 oz per dozen
SMALL: 18 oz per dozen
PEEWEE: 15 oz per dozen
USDA GRADING AND QUALITY OF EGGS:
There is no reliable way to judge the quality of an egg from the outside. You have to break it to know for sure. That is why you must depend on the USDA grading system of eggs. Also, there is no relation between size and quality. They are two different things; you can buy Small Grade AA or you can buy Large Grade B eggs.
GRADE AA:
Top quality.
When broken it stands high and spreads little.
The yolk is firm and the white thick
GRADE A:
Spreads somewhat when broken.
It stands fairly high with a white that is reasonably thick and a firm yolk.
GRADE B:
Spreads a good deal when broken.
White is thinner and yolk is flatter.
GRADE C:
Covers a wide area when broken.
White is thin and watery.
Yolk is flat and apt to break easily.
The two top grades are best for eggs that are to be served alone: boiled, fried, baked or poached and they may, of course, be used for all cooking.
The two lower grades are fine for scrambling, omelets or combining with other foods such as cakes, batters, soufflé and others.
In cooking, most recipes mean LARGE eggs unless otherwise specified. There can be a considerable variation in price of eggs of different size. In late summer and fall, SMALL & MEDIUM eggs are lower in price.
To get fresh, good-quality eggs try to buy directly from a farmer who does not wash them. They can be kept outside refrigeration for a while if not washed. But if you buy from a store, buy from stores that refrigerate them. Eggs deteriorate fast in quality when exposed to heat after they're washed.
In some areas brown eggs are more expensive than white. Color of shell has nothing to do with quality or flavor. What affects color and flavor is the feed given to the hens.
Store washed eggs in their carton, or other covered container, in the refrigerator. Because the shell is porous, they lose flavor and moisture if left uncovered. Also, they can acquire strong tastes from other foods stored in the refrigerator.
A word of caution; due to the possibility some eggs might contain the Salmonella bacteria, never eat eggs in the raw stage unless you are very familiar with the source.
Most people think Salmonella contamination is due to bacteria entering an egg when cracked or through the shell, but actually it is due to a hen possibly being infected, even though it looks perfectly healthy.
Salmonella is more commonly found in the yolk, though in some rare instances it can be found in the whites. Please, be sure to read the Safe Egg Yolks paragraphs below.

Photo: Sonia - Eggs at Hilo Coffee Mill
How can you tell if an egg is too old?
Eggs have a small air pocket on the larger end. As the egg ages, the air pocket size gets larger. Placing eggs in a bowl of water can determine their age as follows:
A fresh egg will sink to the bottom and lay flat.
An egg that is at least a week old will sink, but 'bob' slightly.
A three week old egg will sink but stand on it's small end with the larger end looking straight up.
A very old or bad egg will float.
*The egg is one of nature's most nutritious, economical and versatile foods. With proper care and handling, it poses no greater food safety risk than any other perishable food.
*Egg recipes properly prepared in individual servings and promptly eaten are rarely a problem.
*Adequate cooking brings eggs and other foods to a temperature high enough to destroy bacteria that might be present.
*The egg has a high nutrient density because it provides excellent protein and a wide range of vitamins and minerals in proportion to its calorie count.
Best way to beat egg whites
Eggs must be at room temperature. the proteins in the white expand better when they are at room temperature.
The whites of older eggs whip easier compared to the whites of fresher eggs due to chemical changes that take place as they age.
When separating eggs to beat the whites, be sure there is no bits of yolk in the whites.
Cleanliness is crucial. All utensils such as bowls, whisks, forks, beaters used in the beating process must be squakey clean and free of any grease or oily film.
The equipment must also be completely dry and contain no moisture.
A pinch of salt will help firm up the foam when beating egg whites.
Adding a bit of acid, such as cream of tartar or a drop or two of lemon juice or white vinegar will help keep the air bubbles from deflating after you stop beating the whites.
If the beaten whites are still a bit unstable, start adding a bit of sugar (if the egg whites are to be used in a dessert) as you continue beating.
*Egg whites will fluff up higher in a copper bowl. There is a chemical reaction between the egg whites and copper, which increases volume.
*The more sugar added to the whites, the longer the beating time and the more stable the foam.
*Degree of beating is crucial. The goal is to create a fine, even foam that provides enough volume to leaven the recipe but is still moist and elastic enough to not "break."

Photo: Sonia - Deviled Eggs by Brenda
More Hints and Tips
*In most recipes, it is preferable to take eggs from the refrigerator and let them come to room temperature before using. But eggs to be fried will spread less if they are cold.
*Egg yolks, like flour and cornstarch, are thickening agents. Two egg yolks are approximately equal to one tablespoon of flour as a thickener, but must be cooked over gentle heat to prevent "scrambling" or curdling.
*If your cakes tend to fall a lot it could be because the eggs you use are too big. Medium to large eggs are best. Extra large might be too large for your recipe.
*Refrigeration, freezing and drying are the best ways to preserve egg quality.
*If you find yourself with more eggs that you will use in a few weeks, just break them out of their shells and freeze in ice cube trays. Store in freezer safe plastic bags
*You can store fresh eggs, in their shell, in a plastic bag with a handful of shiitake or porccini mushrooms and the egg will absorb the taste through the shell. Wonderful for omelets or fritatta!
*Hard-boiled eggs, properly stored in the refrigerator can be kept and used for 2 to 3 weeks.
*And here is a useful tip I learned from a gardening friend. Save crushed, empty eggshells in a plastic freezer bag until full and spread around plants you want to protect from slugs in the garden.
SAFE EGG YOLKS
In her book CookWise, Shirley O. Corriher comments: "Common sense, proper refrigeration and proper cooking techniques are powerful tools for combating salmonella. The American Egg Board and various writers have devised procedures for killing salmonella in egg yolks."
Use the following procedure in any recipe, like for homemade mayonnaise or Caesar salad dressing, which calls for raw egg yolks.
In a small skillet, over low heat, mix 2 egg yolks, 1/2 teaspoon sugar and 1/4 cup liquid from recipe being used - for example, lemon juice and water if making mayonnaise or use cream if making truffles. Stir and scrape the bottom of the pan constantly with a spatula. At the first sign of thickening remove pan from heat, but continue stirring. Dip the pan bottom in a larger pan of cold water to stop the cooking process.
A bacterium in egg yolks is killed instantly at 160oF, but this will also cook the eggs. You can achieve the same effect by holding them at a lower temperature for several minutes instead. Holding them for 3.5 minutes at 140oF, which is as hot as hot tap water will pasteurize yolks without cooking them. They will not scramble or cook until about 180oF, so there is some margin here.

Photo: Sonia - Egg omelet with Chives at Mala'ai School Garden